Floor-Painting Basics

Posted by DSH on Saturday, July 29, 2006

From Better Homes and Gardens Magazine
Don't just cover dull or damaged wood floors with carpet or rugs. Give them a new look with paint, stencils, and a little elbow grease.

Painting should be reserved for worn or damaged floors. Although a painted design can be removed with a standard refinishing process, some paint residue may remain. Surface preparation and a primer coat are the keys to making a painted floor wear well.

Removing the Old Finish
Old varnish or wax prevents paint from adhering to the floor, so old treatments must be removed. If only a section of the floor is to be painted, tape it off with painter's tape. Remove any staples and pound in all nails. Fill any gouges with paintable wood filler. Sand the floor with a handheld sponge sander and medium- to fine-grit sandpaper. Wipe floor with a tack cloth, then scrub it with a liquid floor cleaner . Let the wood dry completely.

Painting Tips
* Flat paint will give a smoother, less sticky surface than semigloss.
* Two or three coats ensure a flat, even look. For a lighter "pickled" look, use only one coat.
* Use a pad-style applicator for the most even coverage (see Photo 3).
* Allow sufficient drying time between steps; this will vary with humidity and air circulation.

Varnishing Tips
* When your painted design has dried, use a clean pad-style applicator to apply a coat of floor-quality, satin-finish polyurethane varnish.
* For high traffic areas, apply a second coat of varnish, allowing varnish to dry completely between coats.
* If the varnish top coat wears away with time, reapply as needed.


To Remove a Painted Design

Sand and scrub the floor as described in "Removing the Old Finish," above. Apply floor-quality stain to bare wood, then varnish to seal the wood.

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